CORONINI'S LIKED DISH AND TWO RECIPES TO TRY (THERE'S TIME)
Article by Rossella Dosso published in Fuoco Lento
The taste for beauty and refinement was in the DNA of Count Guglielmo Coronini Cromberg (1905 - 1990), the last owner of the homonymous Gorizia Palace, which represents a treasure chest of works of art, portraits, furnishings, of very high value. Alongside these testimonies, there are objects (ornaments, porcelain, crystals, silverware) that convey the atmosphere of everyday life in the noble family, including gastronomic habits, as suggested by the presence of nine manuscript notebooks from the mid-19th century - the first fifty years of the last century, preserved in the archives of the Coronini Cromberg Foundation. Drawn up in different languages (German, French, Slovenian), three of them are compiled by Olga, Guglielmo's mother. A first notebook containing 48 recipes is written - as we hang from Roberto Zottar's in-depth study on "The Evolution of Gastronomy and the Kitchen Notebooks of the Coronini House" - in Kurrentschrift, the ancient German italics. Olga's manuscripts - containing approximate indications as to weight and execution - are aimed at those with a good culinary familiarity and speak to us of a typically Central European cuisine, certainly not popular but, at the same time, without excesses as to refinement and opulence. The same collect (also) some recipes on the game, which the Count sometimes hunted personally, using the thirteen-bore rifle made by his great-uncle, Arturo Coronini Cromberg.
As far as the structure of the service on the table was concerned, even Casa Coronini recorded the passage from the so-called "French style", where diners drew on the dishes freely, to the "Russian style" service: the dishes, except for cold appetizers, were brought to the table in succession according to an order that guaranteed the right cooking point and the optimal temperature. Towards the middle of the 19th century, the service was enriched with a minute course (the menu) to give the guest a sense of the gastronomic journey that would await him.
Among the different recipes, we propose two:
Having 2 small shoulders of roe deer or a large rabbit, stew the meat together with the bones for an hour and a half, adding a little butter or simple fat from the roast veal. If necessary, wet with a little water. Remove the bone, boil for two hours and filter the broth to remove the fat. Then chop the meat and beat it for two hours gradually adding 3 raw yolks and 2 tablespoons filled with fresh bacon cut into squares; during the operation water the mixture with the stock previously-stored and then sieve it. Then add again 2 tablespoons filled with pieces of speck and as many of ham or tongue and pistachios. Line the mould with thin slices of speck and bake the pate for an hour and a half in a bain-marie. It is also very good with the addition of Madeira or mushrooms.
For the veal jelly, follow the same recipe, but add the butter and exclude the eggs.
Let a lot of vegetables dry with butter or lard and only then add the whole duck. (If the duck should be very oily, you have to remove the skin and some of the fat so that it does not taste "fresh"). When the duck, after being turned repeatedly, has taken a little colour, add a tablespoon of vinegar and water, and occasionally a glass of red wine. When the duck has softened, remove it from the heat, chop the vegetables, if necessary add a little more wine, because the sauce must be abundant. Then cut the duck (after removing the skin) and water it with the vegetable sauce (passata).
Rossella Dosso - Gorizia3.0